Peter Copping Finds His Rhythm at Lanvin Men’s Collection SS27

28 Jun 26

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Peter Copping marks 100 years of Lanvin Menswear with his most relaxed, most personal and most convincing collection yet.

There is something quietly confident about a collection that doesn’t need to shout. Lanvin’s Spring Summer 2027 menswear, presented by Artistic Director Peter Copping at the Maison’s new home in Paris’s 10th arrondissement, is exactly that kind of collection. Assured, considered and genuinely pleasurable to spend time with.

The venue alone sets the tone. Hôtel de Botterel-Quintin, a former private mansion dating from 1780, was conceived as a three-dimensional moodboard for the occasion, with reference images, paper patterns and fabric swatches revealing the creative process behind each piece. It felt less like a show and more like being let into a conversation that had been going on for some time.

The conversation itself is rooted in Surrealism. Copping drew inspiration from the movement’s founders, several of whom Jeanne Lanvin knew personally and dressed, and the result is a silhouette that is youthful, romantic and effortless in the way that only very well-made clothes can manage. Relaxed proportions, elongated lines and fluid fabrics create a sense of continuous motion. Double-breasted jackets and relaxed trousers arrive in lightweight wools, washed silks and textured cottons with crinkled, gently lived-in finishes that make each piece feel as though it already has a history. Tailoring remains central, though softened and less prescriptive than you might expect.

Utility is equally present. Parkas, safari jackets, workwear trousers, jumpsuits and trench coats are recast in refined fabrics and careful construction, the practical and the elegant meeting on genuinely equal terms.

The season also marks 100 years of Lanvin Menswear, celebrated with a capsule created in collaboration with British knitwear maker John Smedley. Striped knits with discreet Lanvin signatures, softly structured shirts with textured collars and fine-gauge sweaters animated by archival chevron motifs: elevated essentials that slot naturally into the broader collection without drawing too much attention to themselves.

A grounding palette of navy, black, khaki and beige is lifted by vibrant accents of pink and blue, and the accessories follow the same instinct, polished loafers, lightweight sneakers and reimagined versions of the LNV2 and Pencil Cat bags completing a wardrobe that moves, as Copping puts it, with renewed freedom and grace.

It is, in short, the work of a designer who has found his rhythm. Lanvin SS27 is the most settled and self-possessed collection Copping has shown yet, and it wears that confidence lightly.