Max Mara Atelier Looks to Its 1950s Factory for FW26/27
The label’s experimental outerwear line uses Bauhaus principles to turn winter coats into functional, structural shelters.
Instead of mining the usual film archives or historical decades for inspiration For Fall/Winter 2026/27, Max Mara has looked at its own industrial footprint, specifically the brutalist, Bauhaus-style architecture of the original Max Mara factory built in 1958
Instead of chasing fleeting viral trends, the new collection, titled The Architecture of a Coat, focuses entirely on heavy tailoring. The inspiration this season looks back to the clean lines and functional design of the very first Max Mara factory built in 1958, designed in the functional spirit of the Bauhaus. It’s created a wardrobe that treats outerwear as a protective, structural shield between the body and the world.
The collection pairs sharp, geometric lines with an oversized fit, meaning these coats look tailored but are wide enough to layer easily over heavy winter knits. The lineup consists of oversized, masculine-cut “monsieur” coats, broad capes, and double-breasted redingotes. The clear standout is a minimalist kimono, which strips away all traditional ties and collars to leave nothing but a sharp, clean silhouette.
The fabrics dictate how these shapes hold their form. The brand uses stiff, technical silks like radzmire and faille to build the sharp edges, then balances them with heavy, dense layers of heritage tweed and classic cashmere for actual warmth in the winter.
The colour palette mimics raw building materials. The baseline relies on industrial neutrals, specifically asphalt, cement, and charcoal grey that are softened by earth tones like mink, ebony, and oatmeal. To break up the monochromatic look, the clothes feature sudden, deliberate hits of brick red, deep burgundy, and a bright Klein blue.
Instead of using standard models as muses, the collection references the work of pioneering mid-century female architects like Eileen Gray, Gae Aulenti, and Florence Knoll. By applying spatial logic to heavy wool and silk, Max Mara Atelier has delivered highly practical outerwear that values both utility and appearance.
Credits:
Images courtesy of Max Mara
Words: Roisin Teeling @roisinteeling
MaxMara.com
