Jacquemus SS27: The Summer You Never Want to End
Simon Porte Jacquemus takes his SS27 collection to the windswept coastline of Corsica and comes back with the most joyful, luminous fashion show of the season.
Simon Porte Jacquemus has always understood that the most powerful collections are the ones that make you feel something before you can explain why. Le Bonheur, his Spring Summer 2027 collection, is built around one of the simplest and most elusive feelings of all: happiness.
The setting is the path to the Phare de la Pietra on the Île-Rousse in Corsica, where the wind is ever-present and the morning light is warm and gentle. It is, as Jacquemus describes it, a place where something as simple as a breeze wafting through clothes can bring about happiness. So can the juiciness of fruit upon first bite. Or looking out to a seascape that conjures a real-life impressionist painting. The collection holds onto that feeling and builds an entire wardrobe around it.
The volumes that are innately Jacquemus re-emerge with simplicity and precision. Tailored jackets and shorts in triple organza that are ever so sheer. Floor-length robe coats that float with each step. Pants that hug the hips then become ample. A paneled skirt that reveals a turquoise culotte before flowing to the ankles. Tone-on-tone striped pieces, opaque to transparent, that suggest the body underneath. Black chiffon dresses that billow freely. The collection alternates between minimalist and playful with the ease of someone who has been doing this long enough to make it look effortless.
Sportswear is highly developed and genuinely exciting. A classic tank is crafted from paper-thin leather or bonded crepe, or bordered with organza shaped through a shibori technique around a pearl, the pearl removed to leave its sculptural imprint behind. These are worn with skirts in tiers of taffeta and cascades of red ostrich feathers, some 2,700 feather bunches in total, that resemble small buds. Men wear suits in technical taffeta and tuck jackets into belted pants, highlighting the waistline.
The details reward attention. Orange leather trousers embossed like the skin of the fruit. Seaweed-like elements undulating down a dress in silk organza cut into bias strips, delicately applied. Organic and geometric textures across highly engineered knits. The colour palette is painterly throughout, soft pastels with vibrant contrasting accents, a silk-wool trench in yellow, a bold green shirt enlivening a wool melange jacket, a swipe of orange along pant hems, a crepe tube dress in aquamarine.
New accessories include the extra-light Les Ballerines Pietra, crafted to fold in two, and Le Tote Pietra, a simplified yet spacious new cabas shape with a calisson-shaped base. The Valérie top-handle bag returns in supple leather with unique prints, embroideries and colours. The show was set to a soundtrack by Para One, a newly orchestrated adaptation of his own compositions.
“I imagined this collection like the summer itself,” says Jacquemus. “The sun, the colours, the beauty of simple things, the feeling of lightness. For me, this is happiness… le bonheur.” On the evidence of SS27, he has made that feeling contagious.
Credits:
Images courtesy of Jacquemus
Words: Cable Writers
Jacquemus.com
