Mike Amiri looks to Los Angeles after dark for SS27
Mike Amiri looks to Los Angeles after dark for SS27 and the result is a collection of louche tailoring, moonlit fabrics and nocturnal glamour that feels like the best night out you've ever had.
Mike Amiri has always understood that the most interesting version of any city reveals itself after midnight. For Spring Summer 2027, he has made that idea the entire collection, and the result is one of the most seductive things AMIRI has put on a runway.
The reference point is American Gigolo, the 1980 Paul Schrader film that turned Richard Gere into an icon of louche, languid masculinity and made a case for dressing as ceremony rather than function. Amiri takes that energy and runs it through a very specific Los Angeles geography. Malibu at sunset. Beverly Hills at midnight. The Formosa Cafe. The secluded environs of deluxe mansions hidden in the hills. The collection moves between these locations the way a certain kind of person moves through a city after dark, fluidly, purposefully, never quite settling.
The clothes reflect that movement. Shoulders slope gently and tailoring flows around the body rather than holding it in place. Denim mixes with tailored blazers. Houndstooth and herringbone sit alongside embroideries and American-Asian-inspired patterns that read like tapestries or folding screens. Classic suiting fabrics, tweeds, glen plaid and metallic pinstripes, are given a subtle iridescence that catches the light the way a room looks when you walk into it from outside. Silk and linen are woven with lurex. Laminations glow as if lit by moonlight. The palette is shaded accordingly, espresso, tobacco and midnight navy punctuated by venom green, burnt sunset and lavender, always with silver and gold somewhere in the picture.
Details are precise and considered. Ombré beaded bowties are worn draped open, as if the evening has either just ended or not yet truly begun. Embellishment is reduced to the materials themselves, which do more than enough.
New to the collection is the AMIRI Biscotto, a gently draped bag with refined gold-tone hardware that takes its name from the craftsmanship behind its folded shape, soft and pliant as a fortune cookie, proposed in two sizes across leather, chain mail and crystal. It is the kind of accessory that announces itself quietly and then stays in the memory.
The season also marks AMIRI’s first move into fine jewellery through a collaboration with Spinelli Kilcollin, the West Coast jewellery brand founded by Yves Spinelli and Dwyer Kilcollin. Two leading West Coast luxury brands, one collection, and the beginning of what feels like a natural creative conversation.
“Clothes built for pleasure,” is how Amiri describes it. After dark in Los Angeles, via the Carreau du Temple in Paris, that is exactly what SS27 delivers.
Credits:
Images courtesy of Amiri
Words: Cable Writers
Amiri.com
